Proper Mulching of a Tree

Mulches are materials placed over the soil surface to maintain moisture and improve soil conditions. Mulching is one of the most beneficial acts a homeowner can do for the health of a tree.

However, improper mulching materials and practices may have little, or even negative, impact on the trees in your landscape.

Benefits of Proper Mulching

• Helps reduce soil moisture loss through evaporation

• Helps control weed germination and growth

• Insulates soil, protecting roots from extreme summer and winter temperatures

• Can improve soil biology, aeration, structure (aggregation of soil particles), and drainage over time

• Can improve soil fertility as certain mulch types decompose

• Inhibits certain plant diseases

• Reduces the likelihood of tree damage from “weed whackers” or the dreaded “lawn mower blight”

• Gives planting beds a uniform, well-cared-for look

Types of Mulch

Mulches are available in many forms. The two major types of mulch are inorganic and organic. Inorganic mulches include various types of stone, lava rock, pulverized rubber, and other materials. Inorganic mulches do not decompose and do not need to be replenished often. On the other hand, they do not improve soil structure, add organic materials, or provide nutrients. For these reasons, most horticulturists and arborists prefer organic mulches.

Organic mulches include wood chips, pine needles, hardwood and softwood bark, cocoa hulls, leaves, compost mixes, and a variety of other products usually derived from plants. Organic mulches decompose in the landscape at different rates depending on the material, climate, and soil microorganisms present. Those that decompose faster must be replenished more often. Because the decomposition process improves soil quality and fertility, many arborists and other landscape professionals consider that characteristic a positive one, despite the added maintenance.

Improper Mulching

Not Too Much!

As beneficial as mulch is, too much can be harmful. The generally recommended mulching depth is 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm). Unfortunately, many landscapes are falling victim to a plague of over mulching. “Mulch volcanoes” are excessive piles of mulch materials applied around the base of trees. While organic mulches must be replenished over time, buildup can occur if reapplication outpaces decomposition or if new material is added simply to refresh color. Deep mulch can be effective in suppressing weeds and reducing maintenance, but it often causes additional problems.

Problems Associated with Improper Mulching

• On wet soils, deep mulch can lead to excess moisture in the root zone, which can stress the plant and cause root rot.

• Piling mulch against the trunk or stems of plants can stress stem tissues and may lead to the development of insect and disease problems or stem girdling roots.

For Quality Service Call: 919-556-2292

Backyard Makeover Tips and Videos:

One.  Enlarge patios.
A common backyard mistake is making the patio too small.  When working on a backyard makeover consider enlarging patio areas to accommodate larger furniture and provide walk around space.  According to EQUINOX Landscaping owner Joe Kosek, “To err is human, but it is better to do so on the side of overly large than too small

    Two. Remodel paving.
Ordinary grey concrete can be quite boring. Giving your backyard paving a makeover will transform the feel of the whole yard. When redoing paving you have two options: tear out the existing pavement or dress up what you have. One option, seen in the video at right, is staining and engraving the concrete to look like natural stone. Opting to dress up your existing paving will save you money on materials and labor.

  Three.  Employ creative layouts. 
Narrow lots can pose a challenge and often end up going unused. However, by working with a landscape designer or architect, you can turn a narrow space into a useable backyard fully equipped for outdoor living. Creative layouts and space saving techniques can be used to fit more features into a small or oddly shaped backyard than you realize.

Other Advice to Get you Thinking:

• Your backyard should fit your lifestyle and family.

• And one should always plan for the future – do you have kids, dogs?

• When your kids are older do you want to convert a play space to an outdoor retreat or raised garden?

• Do you eat outdoors a lot and need to improve you eating space?

• Lastly, don’t forget to consider backyard privacy when completing a backyard makeover.  Do you enjoy having a pathway to the neighbors or place to talk with one another when everyone is outside? Or do you want complete privacy?

Redoing your backyard can be a big project for a do-it-yourselfer. Demolition and installation of new hardscaping can be back-breaking work that takes the average homeowner weeks to complete, while a professional crew can have it done in a few days. Additionally, projects that involve running water, gas or electric lines can be complicated. If you want a fountain, built-in grill or lots of lighting it is best to hire a licensed professional.

However, if you are looking for a DIY option that will save you some money, consider doing the planting yourself. If you go this route, make sure you know the requirements of each plant so you can pick the best location.

For Quality Service Call: 919-556-2292

So with all the hustle and bustle of the life you lead, where is there time to care for your lawn?

The question gets overlooked and often times so does the quality and health of your lawn. But the answer to lawn care doesn’t ever have to be complicated. A couple of simple steps and your lawn can look good all summer long. 

We hope these tips will help you to better understand how to care for your lawn this summer.  If you still need help managing your lawn?  Give the experts at EQUINOX Landscaping a call.

1. Invest in a grass that is drought tolerant.

Grasses used in North Carolina generally consists of warm season grasses such as: Bermuda, Zoysia, Centipede, and Carpet Grass is even used in shady, wet areas of the state. Warm-season grasses are green in the summer and become brown and dormant in the winter. Warm-season grasses are adapted to the sandy soils of the North Carolina coastal plain and most of the Piedmont. Warm-season grasses tolerate the high temperatures and summer droughts in North Carolina better than cool-season grasses. Cool season grasses such as turf type tall Fescue can also be used in areas where year round green turf is desired. Ryegrass is typically just used for overseeding warm season grasses in North Carolina.

2.  Water your lawn, but do not over-water.

First – find out what your neighborhoods watering restrictions are – unless you are on a private well – your HOA, city or county most likely has certian days and times you can water (odd, even, etc.).

Over-watering your yard is just as detrimental as not watering enough.  For starters, overwatering makes the roots stay shallow and more susceptible to the heat of summer.  This means your root system will never be strong and as soon as you miss a day or two, the heat will zap your roots and cause browning.  Secondly, over-watering actually encourages weed germination.

Water only when your grass needs it. Water conservation isn’t the only reason to limit the amount of water you give your lawn.  Over-watering is also bad for your lawn’s health and can contribute to the development of fungus and disease. Many people, however, don’t know that they’re over-watering. Some types of grass require more water than others, and environmental factors, such as temperature, humidity, and wind, can dramatically affect how frequently you need to water your lawn. Fortunately, the most accurate way to determine whether your lawn needs water is also the easiest: just look at the grass. When grass needs water, it will begin to take on a blue-gray tint, and the older leaf blades on the plant will begin to curl up or wilt. In addition, footprints will remain on the grass for longer than usual, as the grass won’t “bounce back.” When 30-50% of your lawn shows these symptoms, it’s time to water.

If you have a sprinkler system – this means setting it to water every 2nd or third day, not every day.

3. How Long to Water?

Most grasses need the water to reach about 8 inches below the surface – that’s how deep a healthy root system runs.  If you don’t have eight inches of absorbent soil under your turf – you will struggle to keep your lawn green in severe conditions.

Turn on your sprinkler for 15 minutes. After 18-24 hours, find out how deep the water soaked in by digging a small hole in the watered area or using a probe (a probe will push easily through damp ground). You can also push a shovel into the ground and use it as a lever to spread the soil apart enough so that you can see several inches below the surface. Once you see how deep the water went in 15 minutes, you can calculate how long you need to leave your sprinkler on. For example, if the soil is damp to 4 inches below the surface and your goal is to moisten the soil to a depth of 8 inches, you’ll need to leave the sprinkler on for 30 minutes (2 X 15 minutes) each time you water.

Estimate how much water you’ll need based on your soil type. In general, 1″ of water will penetrate sandy soils to 12″, loamy soils to 6-8″, and clay soils to 4-5″. Using these estimates isn’t quite as accurate as digging, but it’s pretty close, especially if you have a good knowledge of your soil composition.

4.  Water During Morning Hours.

When you use sprinklers, some water evaporates before it hits the ground. On a hot, windy day, the amount of water that never reaches your grass can actually be quite substantial. To reduce loss to evaporation, water sometime between 4 A.M. and 9 A.M., when the air is still cool and the wind is usually at its calmest.

We hope these tips have helped you to better understand how to care for your lawn this summer.  If you still need help managing your lawn?  Give the experts at EQUINOX Landscaping a call.

For Quality Service Call: 919-556-2292

Not native to the U.S., these ants were likely carried on ships from South America in the 1930s and have since spread to most of the lower states.

Now, they occur in practically every lawn in these states.

Here are a few tips to help you combat the little buggers!

If you have not noticed – it is in the spring after heavy rains that fire ant mounds REALLY show up above ground. They are there other times but underground. The heavy rains drench their underground home so they come up to the surface in order to survive.  Fire ants won’t damage your lawn, but build unattractive, potentially dangerous mounds.

If you do find fire ants, here are two methods to use that are absolutely safe:

1. Hot water and liquid dish soap.
Fill a pitcher w/ hot water and liquid dish soap and pour on mound. You can do this even if people/kids are going to be in the yard shortly after and the ants will be gone.

2. Powdered laundry detergent.
This suffocates them and you won’t have to worry about them moving to a “new home” which is what can happen w/ some products on the market. I’ve used this method to treat an entire soccer field that was covered in fire ant mounds and after that day we never had another one come up.  This also works very quickly and is safe to do if you are going to have people/kids in the yard that day. I buy the biggest cheapest box of detergent and use it when needed.   Don’t cake it on, just  a light coating on the mound will do.

Neighborly Tip:
You might see also if you are friendly with your neighbors if you can get everyone to do it at the same time. We do that on my end of the neighborhood here and its had been years since one of us has had a pile of ants. Otherwise the ants just move back and forth from the same yards if everyone does it at a different time.

Equinox Landscaping strives to provide quality tips for our homeowners and commercial business clients. How are we doing?

For Quality Service Call: 919-556-2292

Keeping a fine edge at areas such as flower beds, walkways, and driveways add to that curb appeal and fresh-kept look. Keeping grass away from concrete areas such as patios will also help with the appearance of the lawn.   Hardcore lawn enthusiasts often have a running debate on whether you should mow first then edge, or vice-versa.  Ultimately, it is your personal preference.

Need Help Defining Your Edge?

Manufactured lawn edging products also work great for creating a border around flower beds, sidewalks, driveways, and gardens.  Lawn Edging protects from creeping grasses and weeds, reducing the need for spraying, weeding, raking, and second applications of  mulch.

There are dozens of edging materials to choose from – and there are also some hidden challenges with installing edging such as rocky soil, ensuring you’ve eliminated creeping weed roots, and matching the right edge material to the look and feel of your overall landscape.  The last is perhaps the most important to preserve or improve your curb appeal.  There is nothing worse than an edging product that was improperly installed – to others looking at your lawn it just screams “cheap.”

If your lawn is your pride and joy – but you are struggling to find the time to do the maintenance it requires, contact the edging and lawn care pros at Equinox Landscaping.

Did You Know:  What’s the difference between edging and trimming your lawn?

Edging is a vertical cut and trimming is a horizontal cut.

Edgers usually have a short metal blade similar to a lawn mower blade. This is positioned perpendicular to the ground.
Trimmers or “weed eaters” are usually done with heavy nylon string that rotates in a circular motion, parallel to the ground.
Both use different pieces of equipment or attachments. However, the difference between a good lawn and a great lawn may only be a trimming or edging away.

“The condition of your lawn has a big effect on the look and value of your home, whether you have a complicated landscaping plan with water features and/or an expanse of grass and flowers.  If you’re hiring someone to help maintain your lawn, match their qualifications, training and local reputation to your property needs.”   –Angie Hicks, founder of service-ratings site Angie’s List.

Equinox Landscaping matches property owners needs and budgets with expert lawn care every day.

For Quality Service Call: 919-556-2292

Vinegar Weed Kill Oxalis Regrowth Week 1

Sometimes it seems the only defense against weeds may be to spray – but in certain cases it could be better to use natural methods, especially if you are trying to weed your vegetable garden and don’t want pesticides near your food source.

Be careful to apply the following tips only to the weeds – not your food plants…

1. Newspaper: nothing better underneath the soil at the base of your garden bed and under your mulch beds, too.  It blocks sunlight and oxygen from the soil, smothering weeds and keeping new ones from growing.  You will get a few weeds that float in and try to seed – but pulling them out is a breeze because there is not a hard soil base for them to attach their roots down into.

2. Corn gluten meal. This too will stop seeds that travel airborne to your garden from growing into weeds.

3. Vinegar.  This sucks the life out of plant leaves- and it is fast. Spraying full strength vinegar on a plant in full sun will often result in a withered, brown plant in only a few hours, for sensitive weeds, or by the next day in tougher plants.   If your weed is waxy or hairy – use soap – the vinegar isn’t going to penetrate the leaves.  This method will not kill the root system on all weeds.

Safety Note:  A number of people have contacted me inquiring about finding and using a more concentrated vinegar weed killer. It is possible to obtain vinegar in a 10% or 20% concentration, though these are not commonly found at domestic retail outlets. Let me caution you to be extremely careful if you intend to use this harsh product. The fact that it is called vinegar can lull you into a misguided complacency, thinking it is a mild, natural solvent. Remember, it is an acid, and you need to treat it with respect, the same as with other caustic substances like pool cleaners.  If it hits your skin – your skin will burn and should be rinsed off immediately.

4.  Soap.  The oil in soap breaks down waxy or hairy weed surfaces.  Try adding one oz of soap to one gallon of vinegar and the weeds will go even faster…beware that established crabgrass and tougher weeds will grow back 60% of the time with this or vinegar method.

5. Boiling Water.  Burns up the leaves, literally.  Boiling water will kill any plant growth it touches. It is very inexpensive and simple to use. It is superb for killing annual weeds and can control and/or kill perennial weeds. It is a popular non-toxic means for killing weeds growing in cracks and driveways.  Slowly and carefully pour the stream of water onto the crown of the weed plant. You can make this easier and more effective by cutting off the top growth of the plant before you dowse it with the kettle water. Pour the water from a low height of just a few inches above the plant crown to avoid any splashing.  “Will some plants still re-sprout?”  Some perennial plants with long taproots (such as dandelion) may re-sprout from the lower root area if it has not been scalded.

When considering how to combat your weed problems – the best piece of advice we could give is don’t blindly accept the recommendation of anyone on the internet, or other sources – do your research and gather information from respected sources such as state or collegiate agricultural sites that post their research results.  If you would like an EQUINOX Landscaping expert to come and evaluate your weed issues – please contact us for a free estimate for weed control and regular maintenance.

For Quality Service Call: 919-556-2292

Leaf Spot and Melting Out Disease

Leaf spot is a disease that appears during cool, drizzly, moist spring weather. Heavy, wet dews, high humidity on overcast days, watering at night, and frequent rain will encourage disease growth. 

The disease over-winters in thatch, soil, or in lesions of infected grass. Just as soon as environmental conditions are right, the disease will appear.

In cool season grasses, helminthosporium leaf spot is a problem for all grasses. Tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and ryegrass are most affected.  In warm season grasses, bermuda grass is most affected, although all warm season grasses are able to get the disease. Different species of the fungus will attack different types of grasses.

The disease has two stages. The first stage is the “leaf spot” stage. Small, purple spots appear on the grass blade. The second stage is the “melting out” stage. It occurs when the environmental conditions that favor the disease persist and the disease spreads to the grass crown. When that happens, the disease enters the melting out phase and the grass dies.

The leaf spot stage is less serious of the two. If while in the leaf spot stage, the environmental conditions change becoming drier, the disease will usually stop and the grass will grow out of it. If conditions remain the same, the grass will turn yellow to orange and die from the tip down.

Spring Dead Spot

Spring Dead spot is one of the most damaging disease of bermudagrass. There are a number of fungi that may cause the disease, but in the U.S. it is Leptosphaeria Korrae and Ophiospharella herpotricha. The disease generally attacks mature bermudagrass lawns that have been established for over three years.

Healthy vigorous turfgrass better resist diseases than unhealthy grass. The most susceptible grasses are those that are stressed and weakened from growing in poor soil, has been poorly maintained, or when growing outside it climate zone.

This lawn disease actually begins in the fall, but the evidence of the disease doesn’t appear until spring. In the fall, when the soil cools to 80 degrees, the disease becomes active and infects the roots. The disease in not noticed because the grass will soon start to go dormant. When spring approaches, the disease progression speeds up. The roots are not able to take up nutrients or break dormancy and the grass quickly dies.

The patches of dead grass are circular ranging from 6 inches to 3 feet in diameter. They will often coalesce leaving larger, more irregular shaped patches. The patches are dead and cannot be saved.

Eventually the grass will spread into the damaged area, but it will continue to have problems.

Red Thread and Pink Patch Diseases

Red thread and pink patch are lawn diseases that often occur together. A variety of grass types are affected including Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, ryegrass and bentgrass. The fine fescues and ryegrass may be the most severely affected.

This lawn disease is one of the easiest to identify. The late stages of red thread lawn disease produces a network of bright pink to reddish color fungus with a thread-like appearance. On cool, damp mornings, the lawn fungus covers the grass with a pink, gelatin like mycelium. Pink patch develops a gelatinous, pink fungus on the grass.

The lawn disease attacks grass that is low in nitrogen. Their development favors cool, wet spring and fall weather. you will often see them during extended periods of damp, drizzly, overcast conditions. This disease has also been known to appear as snow is melting in winter. Mild winters will generally see more occurrences of the disease than harsh winters.

If you need to get rid of diseases before the dog days of summer arrive, contact us now for your free lawn turf evaluation.

For Quality Service Call: 919-556-2292

At Equinox Landscaping, our primary focus is simple: To make your landscape and property beautiful. Whether we’re working on commercial lawn care or landscaping a Cary, Apex, Raleigh, North Raleigh and Wake Forest home, we deliver first-class, innovative workmanship.

Our goal is to exceed your expectations in both service and value.

EQUINOX Landscaping.

This is what QUALITY looks like!

For Quality Service Call: 919-556-2292

What is core lawn aeration?

How frequently should a lawn be aerated?
In regions where the soil has a high clay percentage, thatch build up and compaction is more noticeable, lawn aeration should be performed twice a year. Annual aeration’s should be performed twice a year in regions that have more sandy soils.

Will lawn aeration accelerate grass growth?
Yes, healthy grass will grow faster and thicker.

How can I determine if my yard is a good candidate for lawn aeration?
Common clay soils, more than ½” thatch, frequently traffic areas, standing water after rain or irrigation, or lawns that easily brown up in heat are great candidates. IF you ask a landscape maintenance pro, they will say that any & every lawn can benefit from lawn aeration.

Is Lawn Aeration just a single time service/fix that can be discontinued when the lawn has produced healthier results and growing conditions?
No, lawn aeration needs to be a continuous, yearly process of lawn care. It is just as essential as mowing, fertilizing, irrigations, & weed & pest control. If your lawn has never been aerated or has not had this service done for a while, you should start out with two aeration’s per year, then slowly reduce that number to one.

When should aeration be scheduled?
Lawn aeration should be performed two out the four seasons in order to maximize your lawns full growing & health potential. Spring, from march to may should be your first aeration of the year. Followed by a full aeration between August and November. For warmer grasses such as Bermuda buffalo & st. Augustine, a late spring & summer aeration should be done.(may to july).

How deep & how many core are necessary for beneficial aeration?
Generally, cores that are 4” – 6” apart and from 2” – 3” deep will produce best results. It is a recognized rule of thumb that closer and deeper plugs pulled from your lawn are better and produce the best results.

What is the duration period for cores left on the lawn to disappear?
Depending on variables such as soil conditions, weather, mowing and watering frequently, the cores will break down and vanish in roughly two weeks. This process will add nutrients to the lawn. Attempts of raking up cores will reduce aeration efforts and effectiveness.

Will spiking have the same result as aerating?
No; spiking packs in the soil instead of removing the core. While short term benefits are sometimes visible, there are no long-term benefits to this method.

Should sod or newly seeded grass be aerated?
No; sod should not be aerated for at least one year. Newly seeded lawns can be aerated by the second full season of growth. Aeration is a good way to help prepare soil prior to seeding or sod installation.

“How important is it to aerate near obstacles such as sidewalks, driveways, and planter beds?
It is very important to cover the entire area of your yard. Very often places close to sidewalks and driveways have heavy traffic and a lot of compaction. These tight areas are where weeds can invade and where irrigation systems have poor coverage.

How wet should my lawn be for the most effective aeration?
Having dry soil decreases the depth of cores and aeration effectiveness. Muddy, wet soil allows for a deep aeration but reduces pulling clean and solid cores. I is important not to over water. Aerating should take place 12-24 hours after your irrigation system waters your lawn or after a 1/2” of steady rain fall for best results.

Can aerating tines damage sprinkler heads or other items in the grass?
Yes, that is why you or the aeration technician must flag off all items in the yard that may case damage by the tines.

When should my yard be fertilized?
Fertilize immediately after aeration takes place. This will achieve the best results for your lawn and best return on your fertilizer investment. Fertilizing directly after will also allow the fertilizer to easily and effectively penetrate into the root system.

Will the lawn need additional fertilizer after aeration takes place?
No, fertilize the same amount. This will provide fast and healthy results because the fertilizer is penetrating into the root system where the cores have been removed by the aerator tines.

Should the lawn be fertilized immediately after aeration?
Yes; fertilizer can easily get to the root structure immediately after aeration.

When should pre-emergent fertilizer for weeds be applied?
The appropriate time to apply pre-emergent is directly after core aeration. This will reduce the amount of weed invasion in the lawn while grass is spreading to the cored holes that have been created. Note: Do NOT apply pre emergent if you plan on overseeing.

For Quality Service Call: 919-556-2292

Considerations

• Areas with high deer populations need fencing in order to help keep deer away from gardens and shrubs.  Deer need to eat between six and eight pounds of plants every day.
•  Too many deer competing for limited food sources makes for starving deer that will eat anything, including strong-smelling flowers.

• No plants are 100 percent deer proof. When starving, deer will eat anything they can get a hold of. Any plant, shrub or tree is most susceptible to deer damage in the winter when food is scarce or during a severe drought when most plants have died. Changing a garden to only deer-resistant plants will not guarantee that deer will leave the garden alone.
• Select plants with strong aromatic qualities. Deer rarely eat these type of plants.
• Choose plants that have a rough, course texture or hairy-like surface.
• Choose plants that have a milky sap-like substance or a bitter taste.
• Mass plant or plant multiple varieties of deer resistant plants to create an area that deer will bypass.
• Intermingle “must have” deer prone plants with deer resistant plants. For example, plant miscanthus grass in between roses. Deer do not like the grass foliage in their faces and will often bypass the cherished roses.
• Select aggressive growing plants that can withstand some browsing.

• One last line of natural defense for your plants – milk.  Take equal parts milk and water and spray on your plants.  Apply a thick enough coating that when the milk curdles, the deer will not want to eat it.  This coating should last through 5 or 6 light rains before necessary to spray again.
• Man’s best friend: Get a dog. A dog that frequently patrols your yard is quite possibly one of the most effective deer deterrents.

Trees

• Deer damage trees in two ways: by eating leaves and by rubbing their antlers against the bark, which is particularly damaging to young trees. Place wire mesh cylinders around young trees to protect them from antler damage. North Carolina trees that are least likely to be damaged by deer include live oak, bald cypress, honey locust, American holly, southern magnolia and various pines.

Shrubs

• You can plant a variety of shrubs, both evergreen and deciduous, that are resistant to deer. Evergreen shrubs like century plant, wintergreen barberry, rosemary, southern yew and oleander are seldom eaten by deer. Deciduous shrubs — those that shed their leaves in fall — include Japanesa barberry, butterfly bush and blue mist shrub.

Ornamental Grasses

• Most ornamental grasses are long-lived and tough and are highly resistant to deer grazing. Indian grass, fountain grass and river oats are all well-suited to North Carolina, as are Korean feather reed grass, Pampas grass and maiden grass.

Perennials

• Deer find flower buds and new growth particularly delicious in springtime. Certain perennials are more resistant to deer than others. Options include sleeping hibiscus, powis castle artemisia, false indigo and Texas sage, all of which are both native to the southeastern United States and seldom damaged by deer.

• As a general rule, deer avoid eating plants like gardenia that smell strongly.

Annuals

• While perennials come back on their own year after year, annuals have to be replanted every spring, which means deer grazing can be particularly devastating to these plants. Among the annuals seldom eaten by deer are begonias, snapdragons and petunias, along with zinnias, marigolds and ornamental peppers.

Ferns

• In general, deer rarely graze ferns. Plant these leafy ground plants if you have moist soil and shade. Evergreen ferns for North Carolina include autumn fern, Christmas fern and Florida shield fern. Southern maidenhair, lady fern and royal fern are deciduous options.

For Quality Service Call: 919-556-2292